Friday, December 3, 2010

Mahmud Gawan Madrasa

Madrasah, madarasaa, medresa, madrassa, madraza, madarsa, medrese  different spellings and different pronunciations! But all means the same - Arabic word for any type of educational institution, whether secular or religious.


Madarsa is an Islamic educational institution which teaches students to become a scholar.

Many who study in Madarsa end up as imams. The madrasa also resemble colleges, where people take evening classes and reside in dormitories. An important function of the madrasa is to admit orphans and poor children in order to provide them with education and training. Madrasa may enrol female students; however, they study separately from the men.


One such Madarsa is found in Bidar, a small town in Karnataka. Although it is in ruins now, one can imagine how spectacular this structure would have been hundreds of years ago. It is called Mahmud Gawan Madrasa. It is called so because it was built by a noble man called Mahmud Gawan in 1478. 


Presently the southeast part of this wonderful monument has collapsed and what is remaining is still remarkable. This is a wonderful example of Bahmanid architecture. The plan consists of a quadrangle with halls and chambers on the sides. On three sides there are semi-octagonal projections crowned by bulbous domes while on the other side there is the entrance flanked by two minars. The facade is covered of coloured tiles of various designs in a Persian style. This Madrasa was struck by lightning in 1696 and caused considerable damage to the structure. 


 



If we could preserve what is remaining of this Madarsa in good condition, it is still a worthwhile proposition as this wonderful architecture can never be replicated!

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Silver inlay on black metal

Bidar an obscure small town 160 KMs from Hyderabad is not known to many. Bidri is a border town in Karnataka close to Andhra Pradesh. Bahamani sultans ruled Bidar during 13th to 15th century. Whichever place Muslim rulers have gone they have left behind a wonderful handicraft behind them. Bidar is no exception to this. Bidri art is a gift of Bahamani sultans to Bidar town! 

 
During the times of Bahamani sultans, what is today known as Bidri flourished in Bidar. Abdullah bin Kaiser, a craftsman from Iran was invited by the Sultan to work on decorating the royal palaces and courts. According to some accounts, Kaiser joined hands with local craftsmen and gave birth to Bidriware. Since then, the craft has been handed down to succeeding generations mostly among the local Muslim and Lingayat sects.

The term 'Bidri' originates from the township of Bidar, which is still a major centre for the manufacture of this unique metal ware. Bidar has many artisans who are experts in making Bidriware through generations.

An alloy of copper and zinc in the ratio of 1:16, it is black in colour. The alloy gets the deep black colour because of zinc. To start with, a mould is made which is a mixture of soil and castor oil. Castor oil is mixed with the soil to give the mixture proper malleability. The molten alloy is then poured into it to obtain a cast piece which is later smoothened by filing. The casting is then coated with a strong solution of copper sulphate to obtain a black coating over which the designs are etched freehand with the help of a metal stylus. 

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The resultant article is secured in a vise and the craftsman uses small chisels to engrave the design over the freehand etching. Fine wire or flattened strips of pure silver are then carefully hammered into these grooves.

The dark ground with an inlay of silver in intricate patterns is extremely pleasing. The designs, inlaid with pure silver, stand out dramatically against the black background. The designs are usually taken from the historical fort at Bidar and the frescoes in the Ajanta caves, though new designs have been added in recent times.

This is a very fine handicraft which should be encouraged so that it does not fade away with the onslaught of modernisation. It is very heartening to note that the recently concluded Common Wealth Games at Delhi had manufactured all their medals from this small town in Bidri art. This art must be preserved for future!


Saturday, November 20, 2010

Victoria Memorial

Victoria Memorial (VM) – I would like to call it the Taj Mahal of the East! Taj was built by Shah Jahan for his beloved wife. Victoria Memorial was built by Lord Curzon for his Queen - Victoria. This too was built as a memorial to the queen after her death. 


Shah Jahan spent the money to build Taj Mahal from the exchequer while Lord Curzon built Victoria Memorial by collecting voluntary donations from the public. The princes and the people of India donated generously for this. Total amount spent was one crore five lakhs. King George V, then the Prince of Wales, laid the foundation stone on January 4, 1906 and it was formally opened to the public in 1921.


Like Shah Jahan, Curzon too wanted the entire structure to be in white marble. Curzon even made sure that the marbles for VM were brought from the same quarries – Makrana of Rajastan - from where the marbles of Taj Mahal were  brought.  Incidentally behind both these wonderful and gigantic structures were women (I wonder why no such beautiful structure was built for any man by a lady! Does it mean that  a man loves his lady more than she loves him? Perhaps Yes!) 


There are many striking similarities between Taj Mahal and Victoria Memorial. There is also a correspondence in the forms: the great dome, clustered with four subsidiary, octagonal domed chattris, the high portals, the terrace, and the domed corner towers. There is even some correspondence in the concept; like Shah Jahan, Curzon conceived this structure as a memorial to an Empress and as a powerful visual statement!


VM was constructed by Messrs. Martin & Co. of Calcutta under the supervision of Vincent Esch.  The building is 184 ft high up to the base of the figure of Victory, which is another 16 ft high. 

There are many allegorical sculptures in VM; Statue of Motherhood, Prudence, Learning and Victory to name a few.

The people of Kolkata are very proud of their Victoria Memorial and considering that it is Kolkata , it  is reasonably well preserved!! 





Created with flickr slideshow from softsea.






Saturday, August 14, 2010

Chhota Imambara, Lucknow.

Chhota Imambara also known as Hussainabad Imambara is a wonderful monument located in the city of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. The third Nawab of Avadh Muhammad Ali Shah built this in 1838; it was to serve as his own mausoleum. Also known as the Palace of Lights because of its decorations during special festivals.

The chandeliers used to decorate the interior of this building were brought from Belgium. Thousands of labourers worked on the project to gain famine relief.

It has a gilded white dome and several turrets and minarets. The tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family are inside the imambara. The walls are decorated with Arabic calligraphy. Outside the imambara is the watch tower called Satkhanda or tower of seven storeys. Though it is called satkhanda, it has only four storeys, as the construction of the tower was abandoned when Ali Shah died. Satkhanda was built between 1837 and 1842.

Bara Imambara, Lucknow.

Art, architecture & fine arts seems to have something in common with Muslims. Any place in India, for that matter in the world, you go where there is a sizable Muslim population you can see their imprint glaringly visible in the architecture of that place.


Lucknow commonly called as ‘Nawabon ka Shahar’ in Northern India, is a place where there is a significant Muslim population and traditionally ruled by Muslim rulers. This place has many monuments that speak of the past Muslim ruler’s interest and devotion to architecture.

The city is typical! Have many things in common with my city which is Hyderabad. The culture, food, people, market place and very importantly the warmth of the people you feel once you are there! No wonder I felt at home in Lucknow!

 Lucknow is the capital of India’s largest state called Utter Pradesh. There are many unique archaeological monuments in Lucknow city. The biggest of them all is called “Bara Imambara”. This is a historical edifice with marvellous architecture. It was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784 and its chief designer was Kifayat-ullah, who is said to be the relative of the architect of Taj Mahal. (Family of super architects I guess!) The structure shows a mixture of Rajput and Mughal architectures with Gothic influences. The Bara Imambara is an interesting building. It is neither a mosque, nor a mausoleum, but a huge building having interesting elements within it. The construction of the halls and the use of vaults show a strong Islamic influence.





Created with flickr slideshow from softsea.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Humayun’s Tomb


Many may not know that before Shah Jahan, it was Hamida Banu Begum who built a memorial for the spouse. But Taj Mahal became famous because of its architectural beauty, grandeur and excellence!

If Taj Mahal was built by Shah Jahan for his wife, Humayun’s tomb was built for the Mughal Emperor Humayun by his wife Hamida Banu Begum! This is an edifice built using red sand stones and is the first of its kind in India. The architect of this tomb is Mirak Mirza Ghiyath from Persia.


It also has the distinction of being the first garden-tomb in the Indian subcontinent. It is  locaterd in Nizamuddin East in Delhi, India. In 1993 UNESCO declared it  a World Heritage Site.
The complex encompasses the main tomb of the Emperor Humayun, which houses the graves of his wife, Hamida Begum, and also Dara Shikoh, son of the later Emperor Shah Jahan, as well as numerous other subsequent Mughals, including Emperor Jahandar Shah,

It is built on the banks of river Yamuna due to its proximity to Nizamuddin Dargah, the mausoleum of the celebrated Sufi saint of Delhi, Nizamuddin Auliva, who was much revered by the rulers of Delhi.


This tomb established some of the norms, which were later on followed by others. It is geometrically arranged in a garden crisscrossed by many water channels and it is supposed to resemble  paradise! Subsequently such garden settings were also built in Delhi Red Fort and Taj Mahal. The architectural form of the building is Persian, especially its main chamber which shows some similarity with the tombs found in Persia. Humayun's tomb is the first Indian building to use the Persian double dome which is noteworthy for its harmonious proportions.
Although the architect of the tomb was from Persia, it has been observed that the distinctly Indian aspects of the tomb, such as the Hindu chattris (domed pavilions) that surround the central dome, set Humayun's tomb firmly in the Indo-Islamic tradition that was already emerging at the time.

A high wall surrounds the garden on three sides, the fourth side being bounded by what was once the bank of the river Jamna, which has since been diverted. The garden is divided into four parts by two bisecting water channels with paved walkways (khiyabans), which terminate at two gates: a main one in the southern wall, and a smaller one in the western wall


As with later Mughal tombs, that of Humayun is set upon a podium or platform. The building is noteworthy for its inlaid tile work, carving embodying both Indian and Persian decorative elements, and its carved stone screens.

The coffin of Humayun is found in the central domed chamber, the head pointing south, and facing east according to Islamic practice. The vaulted chambers also contain coffins that were added later. The sex of each occupant is marked by a simple carved symbol: a box of writing instruments indicates a male, and a writing slate indicates a female. The coffins are not otherwise inscribed, but among them are known to be those containing the wives of Humayun, and several later Mughal emperors and princes.

Humayun’s tomb is certainly a place one must visit when in Delhi.

Anger


The following example has happened to me at least thousand times in my life! This, I am sure would have happened to every one!

When I am driving, another car suddenly cuts across mine on the road, adrenalin pumps into my blood stream immediately. My heart rate jumps and blood pressure shoots up! These things, however, are just immediate fight-or-flight physiological response to a perceived threat.

As a psychological reaction to these immediate physical responses animosity toward the other driver overruns my mind. I honk my horn, give a dirty look, and sometimes possibly scream at the other driver! This is: Anger. Anger therefore is the wish to harm something that in my eyes has injured or obstructed me.
Anger is a common human emotion. We all feel it. And we feel it more often than we like to admit.

We all feel hurt or irritated when someone or something obstructs our needs or desires. Anger – in its technical sense refers to the desire to “get even with” – that is to take revenge on – the cause of the hurt.

This happens to everyone and it is quite natural. But because it is natural, does not make it good for us. Natural foods are being advertised as being good for us. Poison for example is also natural; but by definition, poison is deadly! So what is the remedy?
I am unable to offer a solution here as I am not a shrink! All I can say is that these days I am trying to avoid, consciously, getting into this state of mind called ‘Anger’. Period!

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Are more marriages in trouble these days?


My answer to this question would be ‘No’ (based completely on the Indian scenario).

The number of marriages in trouble, in my opinion, would almost be the same if you compare it with what was prevailing some thirty or forty years ago in India.

Dissatisfactions or incompatibilities with the spouse were always there. But the number of marriages culminating in a divorce or separation has definitely increased these days. In my view there are two reasons for this – first one being the economic independence of women and the second, change in the mindset of the society.

Number of working women has tremendously increased these days compared to three or four decades back in India. This is the primary reason for increase in the number divorces in India these days.

I am definitely not a MCP and I do not want anyone to misunderstand what I am trying to say here! The need to tolerate her husband has diminished over time. If we look at the situation some forty years back, women were less employed, empowered and enlightened; hence they were most often than not dependent on their husbands.

So in spite of differences they tolerated their husbands although not accepted them wholeheartedly. Although the relationships were miserable the marriage was stable! Women simply resigned themselves to their ‘fate’. The ‘need’ to live with the husband was very high.

This situation has changed drastically in India because of empowerment of women. These days almost all women are employed and hence they have an independent view on matters, which is very good. Their dependence on their husbands is not as it was years ago. So the ‘need’ to stay with her husband has diminished drastically, as she can independently live. The case was not so years back in India.  Another reason women tolerated their husband was polygamy was permitted among Hindus before the Act was passed in 1955.

Other reason women were dependent on men those days – Child marriage. Formerly, child marriages were common. The Child Marriage Act of 1929 was not very effective as such marriages were continued to be performed. Now, however, the bridegroom must be 21 years old and the bride 18 years.

There is no doubt that we are in the midst of a great revolution in the history of women in India. The evidence is everywhere; the voice of women is increasingly heard in Parliament, courts, television and in the streets. While women in the West had to fight for over a century to get some of their basic rights, like the right to vote, the Constitution of India gave women equal rights with men from the beginning.

Unfortunately, women in this country are mostly unaware of their rights because of illiteracy and the oppressive tradition. Many NGOs like Working Women’s Forum are educating women of modern India and the awareness among them is improving drastically these days.

Men can no longer take women for granted in India. The days have changed! They are different now and they are quite independent.

Contrary to sensational reports sometimes appearing in the news-hungry media in both India and other countries, female infanticide, bride burning (for reasons of dowry) and 'sati' (widow burning) are NOT normal in India. Each of these acts is a criminal act and an extremely rare occurrence.

Modern India is different. India has the world’s largest number of professionally qualified women. India has more female doctors, surgeons, scientists and professors than the United States. India has more working women than any other country in the world. This includes female workers at all levels of skill – from the surgeon and the airline pilot to bus conductors and menial labourers.

In spite of all these improvements on an average however, women in India are socially, politically and economically weaker than men. Moves are underway to empower women. There is a National Human Rights Commission for Women that handles all human rights violations against women. There is a National Council for Women that advocates policy for women. There is an entire ministry for women that formulates and implements policies for them.

Women in India have come a long way! From just a skilled homemaker women today have acquired skills and capabilities of not just being a homemaker but being at par with their male counterparts. This is the new generation of women!

Coming back to where I started, the modern women of India need not tolerate her bad husband. She can conveniently call it quits and still be safe and independent.
Given the same circumstances that are prevailing today even women of olden days would have done the same!! 

I like what Robert Anderson said in his play which presents relationships among three married couples:

In every marriage more than a week old, there are grounds for divorce.  The trick is to find, and continue to find, grounds for marriage: Robert Anderson, Solitaire & Double Solitaire






Saturday, June 26, 2010

Just an observation!


Yesterday night I came back from Delhi. On reaching the Delhi airport I was welcomed by the airlines girl at the check-in counter with a sweet smile and the news that my flight was delayed by one hour! So I had to kill nearly 2 hours! I did not have anything to read with me so I was getting terribly bored.

I was seeing people roaming around everywhere, individuals and families. Parents with single kid and two kids. Parents with two daughters, parents with two sons and parents with a daughter and a son. It struck me that there was a pattern when I observed these families. What’s that?

Whenever I saw a family with a son and a daughter, the daughter was always with the dad and the son was always with the mom! Actually I counted the number of families I saw and it was seventeen! (Ten Indian families, two from east and 5 from west) Whenever the children were of the same sex they were together but not with either of the parents.

I know that my sampling was too small to draw any statistically significant conclusion; nevertheless it did reveal a pattern! And the pattern is universal, as my sampling is not from India alone.

I am sure, by now, you must be fully aware that how bored I was!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

The Paigah Tombs – History in marbles.


Ask any Hyderbadi ‘where are Paigah tombs?’ 9 out of 10 guys will not know the location! Many of them may not have even heard the name! My daughter and myself knew it is somewhere in old city but did not know the exact location. Even the Andhra Pradesh tourism guys did not have a clue of this marvelous marble heritage. It is a pity! After spending about an hour or so in old city and after checking with at least 20 people we discovered the great Paigah tombs! It is almost invisible by the encroachment of numerous buildings all around.



Once you enter through the dilapidated gate you can see the stunning collection of tombs in marble! There is no one inside, barring a man and his family; I guess he is the watch man and no ticket is to be bought to enter this place. Totally isolated! Of course, it is very good for photography because you can shoot anything, without the disturbance of stupid people who do not bother to cross you when you are shooting something. This is something many people need to learn, especially in India! 


Paigah tombs were built during the eighteenth century by Nawab Taig Jung Bahadur and Later by his son Amir e Kabir I. Paigah were nobles who enjoyed closeness to the Nizam of Hyderabad and they had the responsibility of security and defense of the state. The tombs are an array of mausoleums built for Paigah family. These tombs bear witness to the rich historical legacy of India, fine carving and intricate mosaic work of Muslim architects and their creations in India.


Abdul Fateh Khan Tegh Jung was the founder of the Paigah nobility.

The style of architecture is unique to the Paigah tombs. The tombs are magnificent structures, decorated in stucco work, and represent the Moghal, Greek, Persian, Asaf Jahi, Rajasthani and Deccani style of architecture. The geometrical designs in the Paigah Tombs are unique and are perforated with screens with great craftsmanship.

From the photographs one can understand the beauty of this structure. One can observe the intricate work on marbles with inlay work. They were studded with precious stones. Of course, today nothing is there as they were all stolen and even what remains is stunningly beautiful. It is very sad that such a wonderful monument is totally neglected by every one!!!
Hyderabadis, please take a note this fantastic pieces of architecture and try to preserve it!
Created with flickr slideshow.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Visual Pollution.


I was mighty impressed when I read that in 2007 Sao Paulo’s right wing mayor Gilberto Kassab, banned outdoor advertising in the name of what he called “Visual Pollution”, his first move in a larger clean city law initiative. 

I thought such a law should come in Tamil Nadu too. The number of film posters and various other posters which we see on the walls of Chennai is appalling. Every time there is an election all the empty surfaces are stuck with posters or painted with an election message. Faces of politicians - everywhere you turn. Besides this the numerous billboards! They call it cut out. (I am not sure if cut out and billboard are same) Major users of billboards in Chennai are film makers and politicians. In Tamil Nadu the size of the cut out is directly proportional to the popularity of the film star or the politician. How absurd it is! Besides this they even stick posters or write election slogans on the pillars of all flyovers! They also have advertising surfaces on the government busses and taxis and even on the autos!!!

In addition to this many companies put their billboards in the name of brand communication. But they do not spoil the city as much as it is done by posters. But the place where they keep the billboards is very important because recently a high court order was required to remove the billboards from the area around Chennai airport as it obstructed the view of the run ways to the pilots while landing!

In short, our public empty surfaces have become a canvas on which anyone can write or post anything!

When I visited Madurai last month I was bombarded by numerous posters and billboards of Azhagiri everywhere. Looks as though he owns the entire city! Azhagiri auto stand, Azhagiri cycle stand, Azhagiri bus stand and Azhagiri everything! 

His brother has ventured on a program called “Singara Chennai” (Which attempts to make Chennai city beautiful) but he did not think it is important to ban posters and billboards in Chennai in this initiative of his. He does not understand the fact that if he can ban posters alone, Chennai will become 25% more beautiful! His initiative is commendable, but he needs to take care of this aspect too.

When T N Seshan was the CEC, he brought a rule that no contesting party should either stick a poster or paint on the walls their advertising campaign message. To some extent it reduced the menace during his times. But later on this rule is conveniently forgotten by the politicians.

Contrastingly this poster or billboard culture is not seen that much in Hyderabad city. Cinema posters can hardly be seen in Hyderabad. The space below the flyover is given to corporate houses for maintenance. No posters. No writings! It is clean and neat. These corporate houses maintain a garden with good illumination. It looks descent and civilized! Can’t Tamil Nadu government  learn from Hyderabadis?

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Charminar

In my series of posts on Mogul or Islamic architecture, the first one is obviously from Hyderabad, the city I love!

CHARMINAR, is the icon of Hyderabad city. Pride of every Hyderabadi! Perhaps visualising Hyderabad without Charminar is near impossibility! It is an imposing structure in the old city of Hyderabad, often compared with Arc de Triomphe of Paris. Charminar is the pivot around which the glory and history of the city have developed. 


 

This superb monument was built by Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah, the 5th ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty 1591 shortly after he had shifted his capital from Golkonda to Hyderabad. The story goes like this; He built Charminar to commemorate the elimination of a plague epidemic from this city. He is said to have prayed for the end of a plague that was ravaging his city and vowed to build a masjid (Islamic mosque) at the very place where he was praying. In 1591 while laying the foundation of Charminar, he prayed: "Oh Allah, bestow unto this city peace and prosperity. Let millions of men of all castes, creeds and religions make it their abode, like fish in the water." Today one can see the city as evidence of the prayer being answered. The Mosque became popularly known as Charminar because of its four (Hindi char = four) minarets (Minar (Arabic manara) = spire/tower). The point to be noted here is that he prayed for people of all casts and religion! Such was the religious tolerance those days! Very admirable! 

 

 


This beautiful colossus in granite, lime, mortar and, some say, even pulverized marble, was at one time the heart of the city. The wonderful monument with its four arches was so proportionately planned that when the fort was opened one could catch a glimpse of the bustling Hyderabad city as these Charminar arches were facing the most active royal ancestral streets. There is also a legend of an underground tunnel connecting the palace at Golkonda to Charminar, possibly intended as an escape route for the Qutub Shahi rulers in case of a siege, though the exact location of the tunnel is unknown.

Charminar has the signature style of Islamic architecture. This great tribute to aesthetics looks sturdy and solid from a distance but as one moves closer, it emerges as an elegant and romantic edifice proclaiming its architectural eminence in all its detail and dignity. Charminar looks equally spectacular at night when it is illuminated. Apart from being the core of the city’s cultural milieu, today it has become a brand name.

 


Charminar is a beautiful and impressive square monument. Each side measures 20 m, and each of the corners has a tall, pointed minaret. These four gracefully carved minarets soar to a height of 48.7 m above the ground, commanding the landscape for miles around. Each minaret has four stories, marked by a delicately carved ring around the minaret. Unlike the Taj Mahal, Charminar's four fluted minarets are built into the main structure. Inside the minarets 149 winding steps guide the visitor to the top floor. From the highest point one can have a panoramic view of old city of Hyderabad.

In 1889 a clock was installed in the balcony of Charminar, which is in working condition even today! The masjid occuoies the fourth floor of Charminar. Inside the Charminar very beautiful and intricate calligraphic work can be seen. There are four arches on all four sides of Charminar. Each arch is 11 meters wide and 20 meters tall! It’s a sight to see Charminar during Ramadan month as the entire structure will be illuminated.
 
This monument is 400 years old.            

  





Created with flickr slideshow.