Sunday, June 29, 2014

Ramaswamy Temple - Kumbakonam

 

Sometime in 1600s the King of Tanjavur Raghunatha Nayak ordered to dig a water tank in the small village of Dharasuram in Tanjavur district. While the workers were digging the water tank, to their surprise they found idols of Rama and Sita buried underground. Inspired by this, the King who was a staunch devotee of Rama, ordered three temples to be built at Kumbakonam, Srirangam and Rama Sethu.

 

The one that was built in Kumbakonam is called Ramaswamy temple. This temple was built between 1600 and 1634 AD by Govinda Dikshitar who was a minister of the king Raghunatha Nayak.

 

This temple is at the center of Kumbakonam town facing north. The Rajagopuram at the entrance leads to Mahamandapam. This I can say is the art gallery of this ancient temple! Every column in this hall is profusely decorated with fantastic sculptures! Each pillar is a master piece of art. Every pillar narrates an episode from the Epic Ramayana.

 

The sculptures of Mahamandapam, they say, represent a very interesting amalgamation of Chola, Hoysala and Tanjur Nayak art tradition.

 
 
Please observe the last picture below carefully. Even the transparent dupatta on the girl is so intricately carved! The sculpture has brought out the effect of transparency so brilliantly on stone!









Friday, June 27, 2014

Ninth century temple

 

Nageswaran Temple at Kumbakonam is another masterpiece from the Chola kings! Aditya Chola (871 – 907 CE) built this temple during the 9th century! This temple is older than the Brihadeswarar temple of Tanjavur. 

 

When one walks around the temple praharam (Corridor) one can see some of the most splendid architectural sculptures ever. Every niche in the outer wall of the sanctum sanctorum is filled with a beautiful sculpture. They are large, all in standing position, both male and female. I think these sculptures are not of any God! Their beauty, hairstyle, attire, jewellery and shape are all examples of the supreme skill of the Chola sculptor!


 

These statues have resemblance to the ones seen in Buddhist centers. I do not know why! Did Buddhism exist in this part of the world during 9th century? I am not sure. 

They say that this temple is constructed in such a way that the rays of the Sun fall on the Shivalingam for three days in a year during April/May.

 

Considering the age of this temple and wonderful sculptures there in, I strongly feel that Archeological Survey of India should take this temple and preserve it for posterity! 

Present condition of the temple is reasonably good and I am not sure how long it will remain good if professional care is not given!

 


 




Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Venkataramana Temple at Gingee




What we see of The Venkataramana Temple at Gingee in Tamil Nadu, is what is left after the French invaders plundered this temple during 1761 AD! Many statues and monolithic ornamental pillars from this temple were taken away by the French to Pondicherry. I am not sure if they are there in Pondicherry today! 


After the French onslaught, this temple slowly decayed and its old archaeological wealth was plundered by subsequent invaders. Sadly most of the Hindu temples in India have been vandalized by several invasions!

 

This magnificent temple was built by Muthyalu Nayaka between 1540 and 1550. There are many Tamil inscriptions in this temple.  This large temple is in ruins and it is under the care of the Archeological Society of India. The sanctum sanctorum of this temple is sadly empty! There is no God! No idea what happened to the God!


 
When we go around the temple we can see a beautiful Kalyana Mandapam (Place where marriages are held), a Yaga Sala (Place where worship with fire is done) and a Utsava Mandapam (Place where the deity is kept outside the sanctum sanctorum on important festival days)

 
The temple’s carvings & sculptures bear a testimony to the artistic skills of Nayakar Dynasty!


 
 



Gingee is 147 Kilometers from Chennai. 

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Forgotten Fort of Gingee!


Gingee Fort - apart from being a unique architectural feat is one of the few forts in the State of Tamil Nadu. Tamil Nadu is famous for its temple architecture and it has reached its peak during the times of Raja Raja Chozhan itself. Gingee town is surrounded by several hills made of barren volcanic rocks.



 

This fort has two main entrances to it, namely, the Arcot or Vellore gate and the Pondicherry gate. The fort of Gingee has existed for several hundred years. They say this fort was built during 15th and 16th century by Nayaks. 

 

 

Several dynasties are connected with the history of Gingee fort - Vijaynagar Maharajas, Shivaji Maharaj, Nawabs of Arcot, Tipu Sultan, the French and British. However, the legend of the fort is most popularly connected with the story of Raja De Singh, perhaps the only Rajput ruler to have ruled in Tamil Nadu. 

 


The fort at Gingee was declared a National Monument in 1921 and it came under the Archeological Survey of India. The Tourism Department of Tamil Nadu can popularize this remote and oft-forgotten fort. Gingee today, with its ruined forts, temples and granaries, presents a different picture from the glorious splendor of its golden days. But the remains of that glorious past speak volumes about the numerous invasions, warfare and bravery that it witnessed!