Sunday, June 6, 2010

Brahadeeswara Temple.



‘A sculptor's dream, a historian's mine, a dancer's vision and a sociologist's scoop that's the Brahadeeswara Temple’ said Times of India. I would like to add one more; and that is ‘a photographer’s delight! Yes, I literally went berserk when I visited this temple with my Nikon! I wanted to shoot everything and everything is so unique that you wouldn’t like to miss. I am a diehard fan of South Indian temple architecture. Big temple is a brilliant example of south Indian temple architecture and probably one of the best in the world!

Periya Kovil (Big temple) or Brihadeeswarar Temple is situated in Tanjavur in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu. This temple is also known as Peruvudaiyar Kovil (Kovil is the Tamil word for temple). This is believed to be the world’s first fully granite temple. UNESCO has declared  it a World Heritage Site. I personally prefer to call it ‘Big temple’ as I consider this to be temple of temples! Every feature of this temple is larger than life — the monolithic Nandi, the gigantic twelve feet high Dwarapalakas (guardian deities) and the sculptures in the niches around the central shrine. They are distinguished by an elegant simplicity in lines and ornamentation.



In front of the temple is a very big statue of Nandi (Nandi is a Sanskrit word for bull), which is a monolith - 16 feet long and 13 feet tall. Nandi is a common sight  in front of all Shiva temples as it is considered to be the gate keeper of Shiva and Parvathi.

The 'Vimana' - or the temple tower - is 66 meters tall and is among the tallest of its kind in the world. Something very striking with this temple is that the entire temple structure is made out of hard granite stones, which is sparsely available in Thanjavur area where the temple is located. This means that all the granite required to build this temple was brought form hundreds of miles away! This would have been a phenomenal task, considering the fact that cranes and other related infrastructure that are required to transport these granite stones were not available thousand years back when this temple was built! Inconceivable indeed!



This marvelous structure was built by one of the greatest kings who ruled this part of the world centuries back – Rajaraja Chozhan I. 1002 CE was the year this temple was built! Big temple has stood the test of time for more than thousand years! The temple survives to this day in its original grandeur. It is a magnificent haven of architecture, sculpture and paintings.

Rajaraja Chola the Great was the first Chola King to document archives of his rule in the form of written evidence on stone tablets and copper plates. In the famous inscriptions in the Brahadeeswara temple complex, he records not only the donations given by him and his sister and relatives, the noblemen but also the commoners who donated to the temple.

This temple is unique in many respects.

An all stone structure of such stupendous proportions had never been attempted before. In height, elegance and simplicity of design and plan, the temple has few parallels.

It attracts the curiosity of not merely the historians but also the sociologists, not to speak of the dancers and the painters, for it is perhaps the only temple in the world which carries on its walls the engraved evidence, in beautiful calligraphy, of its entire history and the story of the contemporary society.

An exhaustive documentation ranging over almost a hundred long inscriptions engraved on the walls, pillars and podium, is a  rare wealth and indeed of immeasurable value to the scholar.


  
The inscriptions found on the temple walls and pillars give a comprehensive history of the times. The temple also sports a depiction in stone, of eighty one of the one hundred and eight karanas of Bharata Muni's Natya Sastra - the first of its kind - setting the pace for many others to follow in succeeding centuries.

The inscriptional data also abound in mention of the jewelry of the period; about sixty-six different types of ornaments and jewelry are listed with all the details.

Besides all this information there is a fund of material on the social and cultural life of the people of the times. Contrary to the general belief that the Indian community lacked a sense of history, this temple sets an example of the ability of Indians in documenting history.
  
The details of Rajaraja's conquests, his army and navy, his administrative ability and his religious tolerance, are gleaned from the inscriptional evidence on the temple walls.  

The inscriptions also describe  the types of jewellery, the composition and the content and the highly advanced techniques in fashioning them. They also mention twenty-three varieties of pearls, and eleven very clearly defined varieties each of diamonds and rubies alone; which only shows how exhaustive is the recording left behind for posterity.  

The Thanjavur Peria Kovil is one thousand years old this year, 2010. Rajaraja Chola I commissioned this greatest edifice of Tamil history and performed the sacred dedication of the temple in the year 1010, the 25th year of his reign.

A temple for the Cholas was not merely a house of worship. It was the fulcrum of life, for the king linked himself closely with the deity of his choice. War booty was gifted to the temple which was the Treasury as well as the Public Record Office.  



The learned scholar, the sculptor and the architect, the dancer and the musician, the blacksmith and the carpenter, and a host of others depended on the temple for their livelihood. Thus, the temple was an institution of activities which touched upon every aspect of a person's life.  

The construction of the temple is said to have been completed on the 275th day of the 25th year of his reign. After its commemoration the great temple and the capital had close business relations with the rest of the country and acted as a centre of both religious and economic activity.

The towering vimanam is built up with stones with bonding and notching, without the use of mortar. The topmost stone, weighing about 80 tons, is still a matter of discussion for engineers who are baffled as to how the builders lifted it to that height without the help of modern contrivances. A charming tale is told about a ramp being built from a village — Sarapallam — four miles away, from where the giant stone was pulled up by elephants!

The details of the stone work of this imposing vimanam are representative of the masterly craftsmanship of South Indian artisans. The shilpi (sculptor) and the sthapathi (architect) came together to create their fanciful abode for Shiva. Naturally, the shape had to echo Mount Kailash itself. In its perfect geometry and distinct clarity of lines, this tower is unbeatable.

Any write up on ‘Big temple’ will not make much sense without making a reference to the great King who built this wonderful edifice. Rajaraja Chozhan I, who built this temple, was the greatest king of Chola dynasty. Tamil historical novel “Ponniyin Selvan” (The son of Ponni) written by Kalki Krishnamurthy narrates the story of Rajarja Chola. Ponniyin Selvan is a famous 2400 page 20th century Tamil historical novel. Rajaraja Chola I holds the distinction of being one of the Six Indian kings who never lost out on the battlefield to the enemies.

After visiting three times, I still had the feeling that I had missed to photograph something in this temple. This marvelous structure has been there for one thousand years spreading the greatness of the greatest Chola King - Rajaraja Chozhan I. I am sure, when I visit this temple next time, I will definitely find something else which I did not capture this time.

Big temple is truly an architectural marvel!




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Friday, June 4, 2010

Meenakshi Amman Temple - Madurai

Recently I visited Madurai – one of the oldest cities of Tamil Nadu, in southern part of India.

The main attraction in Madurai is of course Meenakshi Amman Temple.

Meenakshi amman temple has been given a big face lift by the Tamil Nadu government. Looks like they have spent a lot of money and time to clean the temple and paint it. Painting the Gopurams (Tamil word for Temple towers) however is a matter of opinion. I am not in favor of painting the gopuram. In my opinion it loses the original look. In the recent past they have started painting all the gopurams in Tamil Nadu. I guess they should be left without painting. It looks better that way.



Meenakshi amman temple is a historic Hindu temple, which is dedicated to Lord Sundareswarar.  Ironically later on it became more famous as Meenakshi amman temple! The main deity in this temple is the Lingam and Meenakshi. The temple is full of wonderful architecture. Although many statues have been mutilated over time, even what remains today is testimony to the splendid architectural capability of Tamilians! The temple is a significant symbol for the Tamil people and has been quoted often in ancient Tamil literature. Although the exact year in which this magnificent temple was built is not known, references to this temple in many ancient Tamil literatures are found. Thirugnanasambandar, the famous Hindu saint has, mentioned this temple as early as the 7th century in his works!



The temple Gopurams are very elaborately sculptured and there are 12 such towers in this temple. Two towers which are just above the main deities are made of Gold with splendid sculptures. The tallest temple tower is nearly 52 meters high! The temple is the geographic and ritual center of the ancient city of Madurai. The temple walls, streets and finally the city walls (ancient) were built around the temple in concentric squares. Ancient Tamil classics mention that the temple was the center of the city and the streets happened to be radiating out like the lotus and its petals. It is one of the few temples in Tamil Nadu to have four entrances facing four directions. The temple is surrounded by 12 towers, the tallest of which, the famous Southern tower, rises to over 52 meters high.



Created with flickr slideshow.

Madurai


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Last week I had the opportunity of visiting Madurai in Tamil Nadu. I knew ‘Meenakshi Amman temple’ offers fantastic photo opportunities. So I packed my Nikon promptly, even before I packed other things!

I spent two days at Madurai and two days at Tanjavur before returning to my base – Mumbai.  The way people speak Tamil in Madurai is quite different and I always enjoyed it whenever I visited Madurai. The main attraction in Madurai is of course Meenakshi. The next attraction for me is Murugan Iddly kadai! Yes, recently they have opened a branch at Madurai. For a guy like me who stays in north India, this is definitely an added attraction! In Madurai you get superb iddlies. I felt that these guys can pay more attention to keep the place cleaner!  The stuff they serve is very good and fortunately they serve mineral water. Big consolation!

Meenakshi Amman temple has been given a big face lift by Tamil Nadu government. Looks like they have spent a lot of money and time to clean the temple and paint it. Painting the Gopurams (Tamil word for Temple towers) however is a matter of opinion. I am not in favor of painting the gopuram. In my opinion it loses the original looks. In the recent past they have started painting all the gopurams in Tamil Nadu. I guess it should be left without painting. It looks better that way.

I am visiting Madurai probably after a gap of about 8 years. Nothing has changed! Everything is same. Same Tirunelveli Alva kadai swarming with people, no change in town hall road, College House same as it was 20 years ago with same tables! Only striking change I noticed was the poster of Azhagiri everywhere! He almost owns Madurai, I guess! Everything is in his name; auto stand, cycle stand, bus stand, you name it! Malli poo (Jasmine flower) with superb vasanai continues to be available in plenty in Madurai. I saw it being sold everywhere! Good this has not changed!

Of course another difference I noticed this time was the penetration of Chudidhar! Almost everyone is wearing Chudidhar in Madurai. The beautiful Pavadai & dhavani is almost extinct! Why Tamilians  Tamilians lose their identity, I do not know!

One thing which is very striking in Madurai is the crowd in hotels. Every hotel is crowded all the time! You can never enter freely into a hotel and eat peacefully in Madurai. Before you start eating, someone will be waiting next to your table for you to finish! How anyone will have the mood to enjoy the food, I am not sure! But that is what is happening in Madurai everyday!

Madurai does not have any quality of being called as a city! It is surrounded by lot of villages and the city is frequented by these villagers. Always crowded because of tourist importance, Madurai still has a charm of its own! 

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Tirumalai Naicker Mahal

Tirumalai Nayacker Mahal (Palace) was built in the 17th century by King Tirumalai Nayak in one of the oldest city of south India - Madurai. This is believed to have been built in the year 1636 AD. This palace was built with the help of an Italian Architect and is a classical fusion of Dravidian, Islamic and European style. The building, which can be seen today, was the main Palace where the king lived. The original Palace Complex was four times bigger than the present structure. In its heyday, Tirumalai Nayak Palace at Madurai was considered to be one of the wonders of the South India.




Created with flickr slideshow.



Tirumalainaicker is the greatest Naick rulers of Madurai.

The palace built by the king, consisted mainly of two residential complexes named Swarga Vilasam and Ranga Vilasam. There were other portions like a theater, a palace shrine harem, royal band stand, armory and structures to accommodate palanquins, and other royal paraphernalia. Relatives of Tirumalainaickerand servant had two separate quarters. At the backyard a lotus pond and flower garden added beauty to this palace.

The original entrance to this building was located in the northern side of the building. This is about 1.2 KM from Meenakshi amman temple. Once you pay the fees for the camera you are allowed to pictures of anything inside this palace. Recently it has been renovated by the Tamil Nadu government.Wonderful place to take many pictures!

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Trauma of transition!

The oldest and strongest emotion of mankind is fear, and the oldest and strongest kind of fear is fear of the unknown. (A. C. Benson)

In my company, all of us are presently suffering from what I would like to call as ‘Transition trauma’.

We are shifting our base form Gurgaon- a beautiful modern city of North India to Mumbai – a congested old city of western India. A distance of 1393 KMs from each other – Gurgaon and Mumbai are poles apart in the way both these cities are made up of! Mumbai is considered the commercial capital of India for ages. Gurgaon is a future city developed only five or six years ago. The corporate offices of many companies are situated in Gurgaon. Since it was developed very recently the infrastructure of this city is superb! The population is moderate and life is very peaceful here. It is a cosmopolitan city in every sense!

In contrast Mumbai city is very thickly populated, life is very fast, people are different attitudinally and above all the climate is very different from that of Gurgaon. Mumbai has three seasons – hot, hotter and hottest!!! Climate is very humid, as the city is on the shores of Arabian Sea.

The trauma, I guess, stems from the ‘Fear of unknown and familiarity of known’ as the modern philosopher JK puts it. When we think of Gurgaon, only good things come to our mind, as all of us are very familiar with Gurgaon. But many of us are not familiar with Mumbai and this lack of familiarity is the cause of concern for all of us! Thinking objectively, there are many good things in Mumbai; those are not available in Gurgaon! For example, public transport! Mumbai city never sleeps and hence public transport is available twenty four hours a day. Whereas in Gurgaon, public transport is a major problem.

Moreover, Mumbai is very intimidating to a person who goes there from a peaceful city like Gurgaon, because of its sheer size and fast pace of life! But, when one settles in Mumbai and becomes familiar with everything there, I guess, life will slowly settle!

I am unable to find time for my ‘iCapture’ because as I said before, we are all busy in getting ourselves and our belongings transported to Mumbai. It will take a while for me to find time for my blog!

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Sunitha Krishnan


Recently I had a chance to see a video of Dr. Sunitha Krishnan in www.ted.com She is an outstanding speaker! Very appealing and emotional!

She has rescued more than 3200 women and children from trafficking! She works on the issue of commercial sexual exploitation. Sunitha Krishnan is actually galvanizing India’s battle against sexual slavery by uniting government, corporations and NGOs to end human trafficking.

In her speech she made a very pertinent point which made me to think a lot. She says our society ostracizes, stigmatizes, and isolates the traffic survivors because they were victimized! Instead of extending a helping hand, our society victimizes the victim! What an irony? This is what she is fighting against. She has undergone lot of hardships in the process of doing this. She has been beaten more than 15 times and she has even lost the hearing in her right ear! Still, she has not given up her fight!

Dr. Sunitha Krishnan is the Founder-Chief Functionary of Prajwala. She has been conferred upon Vanitha - Woman of the Year 2009 by the prestigious Malayala Manorama Group, for her pioneering crusade against sex trafficking.

Prajwala is an organisation based in my city –Hyderabad- and prevents women and children from entering prostitution. They believe that for any long term systemic change to happen, policy framework and policy input is necessary; otherwise civil society’s intervention largely end up as reactionary process without long term impact. It is with this objective in mind Prajwala got into advocacy work, lobbying for policy changes at the state, national and international levels. Both policy and legal lobbying is done by them to bring systemic changes.

For her efforts in the anti-trafficking she has been awarded Stree Shakthi Puraskar(national award), Perdita Huston Human Rights Award and the World Of Children Award. She has been instrumental in rescuing hundreds of children from severely abusive conditions and restoring childhood to them.


See her video here.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Havelis of Bikaner

Colour. More colours. Still more colours. That is Rajasthan. Most colourful state in India. Rajasthan is famous for deserts, camels, forts, Havelis and handicrafts. Rajasthan also has many native musical instruments which cannot be seen anywhere else. On the whole I consider them very artistic people.

As I said before Rajasthan is a place of colour. Everything in Rajasthan is very colourful. The turban, the dress of ladies, the way camels are decorated everything is very colourful. Probably they have the greatest natural colour in their deserts and in fact everywhere you see in Rajasthan – Light brown – the colour of the sand. Any colour looks stunning in this background.

Bikaner, a small town in Rajasthan, is very famous for Havelis. Haveli is a Hindi word which means mansion. These are beautiful residences built very artistically. You can call it a marvel in home architecture! Today they occupy a pride of place in every person of Bikaner. The beauty of this is that even today they are very well preserved! Havelis can be found in many places in Rajasthan. Such Havelis are not seen anywhere in the world. During my recent visit to Bikaner, I made it a point to visit them and took some pictures.

Havelis are situated in the narrow lanes of old city of Bikaner. They are built with red stones and they stand magnificently even today! Originally these Havelis were the residence of wealthy merchants of Rajasthan who had a fancy for beauty and art. Havelis were the symbol of their wealth and status and their love for architecture and colours! They say happiness is not in the mere possession of money; it lies in the joy of achievement, in the thrill of creative effort.


It is said that these merchants, for major part of the year stayed in far off lands where they went to earn money. These Havelis used to be their place of leisure and relaxation! The oldest Haveli in Bikaner is considered to be around 400 years old while most of them are more than 100 years old. It is amazing to note that even after seeing more than hundred years they are still looking gorgeous!

Every Haveli consists of many small and big rooms which were built for special purpose. Most beautiful part of the Haveli is the Mol or mahal. It is decorated with beautiful gold carvings, which was considered as a symbol of status! What richness! Most interesting information of this Mol – It is here the dancing girls used to give their performance during parties! What an ambience for these girls to dance!!!      
 
Generally all Havelis have a similar pattern. They have Jharokhas or casements; elaborate entrance, latticed windows, divankhanas, Gumaharias or basements giving them a most exotic look. The exterior of the Havelis are dominated by Jharokhas which provides the Havelis with a most beautiful look!         
 
These are exquisite carvings and render an amazing look to the Havelis. Leaves and flowers decorate every Jharokha giving it an astonishing and pleasant effect. Also Jali or stones with small hole can be quite frequently seen in Havelis. They add beauty to the entire structure. Most of the Havelis have a second story also.
 



One needs to carry a wide angle lens to capture the complete beauty of these Havelis, as they are all situated in the narrow lanes of Bikaner.
 

In every haveli the dankhana is the most decorated room and most prestigious too. The guests were received here. It is significant to mention that every haveli has two dankhanas - One for men and another for women and these are situated at the main entrance of the haveli.


Aldous Huxley a famous English writer who visited these havelis reported to have remarked “They are the pride of Bikaner”. The most famous cluster of havelies is the Rampuria Group of Havelies. These havelis are built by Balujee Chalva under instructions from Rampuria family. Rampuria havelis are many in number and are big in size. They are located at nearly adjacent to each other giving an imposing view.
 
 
 
The interior scheme of decoration of these havelies is very different. The Rampuria havelies are built of dulmera stone, which are red in color. Exquisite and minute carvings come naturally to the havelis’s stones. The Rampuria havelies are decorated with golden work of the highest quality. Another interesting feature is that Rampuria havelies have diverse exterior and each haveli has a pattern of its own.
 

Although this post is about the Havelis of Bikaner, I cannot end it without mentioning about the hospitality of Rajasthanis! They are polite, soft spoken and extend wonderful hospitality. Generally it is a cool place! (Don’t make a mistake; I am not referring to the temperature here!) You get good vegetarian food there, as most of the Rajansthanis are vegetarians.

I was thrilled when I ordered dhal fry in Bikaner. Why? The waiter asked me if he can add onion and garlic in my dhal fry. I was very happy of this, as in most places they add garlic automatically and spoil my lunch/dinner. But Bikaner is different! It’s a wonderful place.