Rajarani Temple

Rajarani Temple is an eleventh century Hindu temple located in Bhubaneswar, the capital city of Odisha (Orissa previously), India. It is locally known as a "love temple" because of the erotic carvings of women and couples in the temple. (But I did not see any such sculptures in this temple. Probably it was there during those days). But according to Orissa tourism – the name   Rajarani is because of the local sandstone used to build it – I would believe this.

Rajarani Temple is built on a raised platform with two structures: a central shrine called the vimana (sanctum) with a bada (curvilinear spire) over its roof rising to a height of 18 m (59 ft), and a viewing hall called jagamohana with a pyramidal roof. The temple was constructed of dull red and yellow sandstone locally called "Rajarani". 

At present there is no idol inside the sanctum, and hence it is not in worship.This temple too roughly belongs to the same period as that of Jagannath Temple of Puri. The architecture of other temples in central India is believed to have originated with this temple, the notable one being the Khajuraho temples!

Rajarani Temple is famous for its sculpted figures and the successive tiers of projections rising to form its 18 m tower. 

This temple is also famous for the tall and slender nayikas (temple figures) carved in high relief on the walls-figures in amorous dalliance and in such acts as fondling her child, looking into the mirror, taking off her anklet, caressing the bird, playing instrument, holding branches of trees. 

Presently this temple is not under worship and it is declared as a monument by Archaeological Society of India. Photography is allowed in this temple. 

Miniature sculptures of Orissa

Between the seventh and the sixteenth century the temple building activities in Orissa went on uninterrupted. As various religious sects ruled Orissa during this time they impacted the architectural style and sculptural details. In fact the architecture of Orissa found its supreme expression in the great Sun Temple of Konark built during the thirteenth century. It can be said that Sun Temple was the culmination of a distinct style of architecture called the Kalinga style!  

Kalinga style of architecture had become common throughout Orissa by tenth century itself. This is evident in Mukteswar Temple built during the tenth century. Mukteswar temple is acclaimed as one of the most beautiful temples of India. This temple is elegantly decorated from top to bottom with exquisitely carved sculptures. It is considered as 'Gem of Odisha Architecture'. 

Similarly the Maghesvar temple built during the twelfth century is also studded with delicately carved sculptures. Every inch of this temple is decorated with elegantly carved sculptures. 

I have noticed in most of the temples in Orissa they have used miniature sculptures to decorate the temple walls! Their actual size varies from three to four inches only. These sculptures are carved so meticulously that even a subtle smile in the face of the women is clearly noticeable. Hundreds of these miniature sculptures decorate each temple. In fact you can see thousands of such sculptures in Sun Temple alone if you can patiently look for it! 

Miniature sculpture photographed at Maghesvar Temple (Actual size is three inches)

Some of these miniature sculptures which are seen on a lower level are already vandalized by the visitors and they are disintegrating! Many were mutilated during the invasion of Orissa. It is very sad to see the condition of these invaluable and irreplaceable  wealth! Orissa has too many things like this which are to be protected for the future generations! 

In this post I am publishing photographs of miniature sculptures which I shot in Mukteswar and Maghesvar temples of Bhubaneswar. Take a look!      

Miniature sculptures of Maghesvar Temple

Miniature sculptures of Maghesvar Temple

Another Miniature sculpture of Maghesvar Temple (Actual size is less than three inches)

Miniature sculpture of Muktesvara Temple

Miniature sculpture of Muktesvara Temple

Miniature sculpture of Muktesvara Temple (Actual size is 3 inches)

Chausathi Yogini Temple

Worshiping Female Power (Yogini Cult) was rampant in India between  9th and 12th century.  There are only very few  Yogini Temples remaining in India today of which Two are in the state of Orissa. One is, Vaital Temple which is well within the capital city of Bhubaneswar and the other is in the outskirts of the city in a village called Hirapur. This small village is 15 KMs from Bhubaneswar and the Chausathi Yogini Temple is on the banks of the river Daya.

Locally this temple is known as Mahamaya Mandir. This stunning temple was discovered by Kedarnath Mahapatra of the Orissa state museum in 1953. 

Chausathi Yogini Temple of Hirapur is a temple of a different kind. It is a tantric temple built with hypaethral involve worshiping environment consisting of all the 5 elements of nature - fire, water, earth, sky and air. According to the Archaeological Survey of India's (ASI) care taker of this temple, Goddess Durga took 64 forms of demy goddesses to defeat the demon. After Durga fought with the demon and killed him, the 64 goddesses or Joginis asked Durga to commemorate them in the form of a temple structure. Hence this temple was built by the Queen Hiradevi of Bramha dynasty during the 9th century.

The temple is in a circular shape, the circumference of which is around 27 meters and 2.5 meters tall. The inside of the circular wall has cavities, each housing the statue of a Goddess or Yogini.  These Yogini idols represent a female figurine standing on an animal, a demon or a human head depicting the victory of Shakti (Feminine power). The idols express everything from rage, sadness, pleasure, joy, desire and happiness! While the entire temple is built with locally available coarse sand stone the Yogini idols are carved out of chlorite stone brought from elsewhere.

A. Charchika standing on a demon B. Chinnamastaka standing on a severed human head C. Vikarali standing on a dog

D. Kali standing on recumbent male figure E. Vinayaki standing on donkey F. Aditi standing on Parrot

G. Maheshwari standing on a bull H. Ambika standing on a mangoose I. Kamayani standing on a cock

The mount on which these Yogini idols stand and the hair style of each Yogini are unique to each idol. All the 64 statues are very delicately carved to bring out the feminine beauty. Each is a classic by itself. The idol of ten armed presiding deity is Mahamaya (I was not allowed to photograph this) and it is the biggest of all.   

In the centre of the circular structure is a Chandi Mantap (lately restored one). 

The care taker of this temple from ASI Mr. Surendranath Routaray (Mobile number: 99381-55057) is a very nice gentleman and lives close by to this temple. He gave me the guided tour of this temple (very patiently allowing me to take notes as he explained). 

When I first heard about this tantric temple I was a little sceptical (actually scared!) of visiting it. But when I visited the temple I was awestruck with its beauty! If you happen to be in Bhubaneswar this temple is something you should not miss! 

Vaital Temple Bhubaneshwar

This interesting 8th century temple is dedicated to Chamunda (A form of Kali) and it is one of the oldest temples of Odisha. It also assumes greater significance as it is a rare temple in the country because this temple is used as a shrine devoted to Tantric cult! 

It is said that Vaital Temple is an excellent example of Kalinga architecture. It is a representative of the Khakhara order that was specially devoted to Tantric cults. The entire temple is an exhibition of the finest skill of Orriyan artisans. Some of the sculptures are so fantastic that they almost look like 

living human beings. Each sculpture is decorated with detailed ornaments. The extent to which those unknown sculptures have given importance to the finest detail is simply amazing!  This is one of the finest temples I have visited in India.

This great architectural wonder is on the brink of collapse any time soon, if proper action is not taken by the concerned authorities immediately! Monsoon is the biggest threat to this temple next to indiscriminate encroachment from the neighbourhood. 

Every monsoon this temple gets inundated with rain waters. The temple is below the road level and the main road is practically touching the temple. Hence even with a few millimetres of rain, the rain water from the road gets into the temple and fills the entire floor of the temple including the sanctum sanctorum!  Even the priests can't wade through the waist-deep water to perform the daily rituals during such water logging! Archeological Survey of India has installed a pump to drain the water as a temporary measure. But the problem with this is that the vibrations from the pump is affecting the 1300 years old structure and it may weaken the temple's foundation! 

BDA's (Bhubaneswar Development Authority) Indiscriminate approvals for buildings around this temple and thoughtless planning of the drainage system are responsible for the tragic state of this temple today. ASI is actually helpless in this cases. It seems that the local media have been highlighting this problem for years but sadly no one in the Orissa Government seems to be bothered about this.

The way houses have come up surrounding this temple speaks volumes about the concern the local government is having for these monuments. Houses have come up surrounding this temple encroaching on the drainage channel originating from the temple completely violating the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, 1958. Few years from now it will not be a surprise if this temple vanishes completely! 

Take a look at the pictures in this post. You can observe the encroachments and what a great monument that is left uncared by the government. 

Very S A D!

Most abused temple of Orissa!

On the eastern banks of the ancient Bindu Sarobar Lake stands a magnificent 13th century temple called Anantha Basudev Temple.  This is the only Vaishnavite temple which is intact today relatively!) and is still in worship in Bhubaneswar. It is under the Archeological Survey of India and according to them it was built during the 13th century, by  Queen Chandrika of Eastern Ganga dynasty. Later in 17th century when Maratha empire extended up to Mahanadhi they renovated this temple extensively. So this temple is more than 900 years old!

There are four stages in this temple and they are: Bhog Mandap (place where Bhog is distributed), Nat Mandir (Dance Area), Jogmohan (assembly area) and the Biman, housing the Garbha Griha (inner sanctum). It is a classic example of Orissa Temple Architecture.

The inner and outer walls of the temple are carved  with many intricate designs similar to other temples of Orissa. There are many sculptures of female figures. These sculptures are heavily decorated with ornaments. Large varieties of figures are carved on the outer walls with minute details and decorations.

Today this temple must be the most abused temple in India! Unfortunately this magnificent temple is poorly maintained as dozen of priests are busy cooking the bhog (Prasad) at the temple complex itself. In fact the entire outer courtyard of the temple is now used as kitchen for the priests and devotees to cook Mahaprasad. The soot emanating from the firewood has blackened major portion of the yellow sand stones and most of the beautiful sculptures are severely damaged.

Because of the rift between the Bhubaneswar Municipal Corporation and the temple authorities the new kitchen outside the temple complex is not yet built although the required land has been procured two decades back! It seems quite frequently fire breaks out in these kitchens and every time fire breaks out, heat from the fire damages the temple beyond repair! A major fire broke out in September of 2010 and damaged the temple structure  extensively. Though catching fire has become a regular menace in this temple, there has been no initiative from the authorities to replace the hay of the roof of the kitchen with concrete!!

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) had identified thie temple as one of the oldest heritage monuments of the east. In spite of this no one seems to be bothered to preserve this monument including the Orissa State Government!

This great monument has become the victim of apathy of the state government and inability of ASI to resolve the local issues! 

The best joke is - there is a board at the entrance of this temple which says "Protected Monument" !!!!! From what? - I do not know!