Sunday, March 18, 2018

Muvar Koil - Kodambalur


Kodumbalur is perhaps the oldest historically recorded site and one of the most ancient places in Pudukottai District of Tamizh Nadu. It seems the earliest Tamizh epic - Silappadikaram mentions about Kodumbalur as a town lying on the way between Uraiyur, the Chozha capital and Madurai, the Pandya capital. It is through this road did Kovalan, the hero of Silappadikaram and his wife Kannagi along with the Jaina acetic travelled from Uraiyur to Madurai. Also the Periya Puranam refers to this place as Konattu-k-kodi-nagaram! 


For a long spell between 9th and 14th centuries Kodumbalur was under the Chozhas and later under Pandyas. This place was totally destroyed during the Muslim invasions in the 14th century.


What remains today in this great place is Muvar Koil meaning temple-of-three! This temple was built by the Irukkuvel Chief Bhuthi-vikram-kesari. According to the inscriptions he built these three Shiva shrines, one on his own behalf and the other two on behalf of his two wives. 


As far as the dating of Muvar Koil there are more than one opinion. However, it can be safely said that they belong to early Chozha period i.e between 9th and 11th century AD.


The temple complex here had three main shrines (Hence the name Muvar Koil) and many sub-shrines. The three main shrines stood side by side in a row, along the north-south direction facing west. 


However of the three main shrines only two are remaining today.  In its hay days this complex was supposed to have had a manimamdabam, several sub shrines and a bali-pitam! 


Decorating the niches of the shrine's walls are some of the finest sculptures of our country. Each sculpture is done with an utmost devotion and maximum  importance is given to the minute detail even! 


On the wall of the southern temple is a play enacted the Pallava way. In the top niche is Shiva as Gangadharan in a supportive mood. His face is lighted up with a tender but mischievous smile, while Parvathi moved away in mock anger. The whole composition of the Goddess trying to edge away by squeezing herself into the narrow space of the niche shows great aesthetic sensibility. In the next niche below, in its sequel the couple is seen reconciled and Parvathi's face is lighted up with happiness as she is encircled by the arm of Shiva.


This temple complex is under the care of Archaeological Survey of India and it is a ticketed monument. Photography is allowed since it is under the care of ASI.

For Anyone interested in Indian sculptures this place has plenty to offer.


No comments: