Kudumiyanmalai Temple Complex

There is a wonderful temple complex in Kudumiyan Malai. The oldest part of the Kudumiyanmalai Temple complex is the rock cut cave shrine called Melakkoil. In the same complex The Kuduminatha temple came a few centuries after the cave temple, sometime in the 10th century. Built by the Cholas, it was renovated by the Pandyas in the 13th century and by the Vijayanagar Kings in the 15th. During every renovation these kings have added some outstanding sculptures to this temple. 

If this temple is in some form today it is because of The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). This temple complex was almost ruined few years back and it is the ASI which has painstakingly restored this great temple to it's original glory. Today this temple is in reasonably good condition and it is under the care of ASI. With all their limitations I should say that ASI is maintaining this temple very well.

Thousand pillared mandapam at the entrance has sculptures of Hanumanji, Sugreevan and Vaali. Since this is the latest addition to the complex the sculptures have not been exposed to the onslaught of Muslim Invasion and hence are in very good condition.

The next hall is called Vasantha Mandapam which houses sculptures of Narasimha, Rati and Manmathan, Ugra thandavam of Shiva, Subramanya on peacock, Agora Veerabhadrar.

Above the Melakkoil is a rare bas-relief of Siva and Parvati on rishaba vahanam, flanked by the 63 Nayanmars. 

Forfurther details one can always Google!

I have taken all these pictures in this temple in its natural background. In order to bring out the details of each sculpture I have cut out the sculptures from its natural cluttered background and posted them in this post! 

Less observed sculptures of Brihadeeswarar Temple Tanjavoor

Brihadeeswarar temple of Tanjavur, Tamizh Nadu has thousands of sculptures.  There are hundreds of sculptures which one cannot miss in this temple. But there are hundreds more which 

are small and tiny which can very easily be missed. 

If I call it a Magnum opus of Chola Architecture it will only be an understatement. So far I would have visited this temple at least 8 times! Every time  I go there I discover something new. This temple has so much to offer for those who love temple architecture! Sculptures in this temple vary in size from few inches to over six feet and more! 

Particularly interesting place to look for these sculptures is the outer walls of the shrine of Subrahmanya. One can at least spot hundred interesting sculptures here.

Brihadeeswarar temple was built by the greatest Tamizh King Raja Raja Chozhan I between 1003 and 1010 CE. This temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the "Great Living Chola Temples" along with the Chola dynasty era Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Airavatesvara Temple. 

In this post I have posted only those sculptures which anyone can miss! One need to go looking for it, otherwise it is very likely to be missed. 

Since it is a World Heritage Site still photography is allowed! Although it is a protected monument there is no entrance fee for this temple. It is important to know that backpack is not allowed inside the premises. Carrying multiple lenses is a problem! 

Temple with a turbulent past!

An exquisite temple for Lord Shiva was built in the 13th Ctry inside the Vellore Fort. This temple is called Jalakandeswarar temple.The construction of the temple began in 1274 CE and continued into the period of Sambuvarayars who built the inner Fort and the inner prakaram of the temple. New structures were added at  different stages till 16th Ctry. The outer prakaram, the most decorated Kalyana Mandapam and the Vasantha Mandapam were built during the reign of Vijayanagara King Sadasivadeva Maharaya when Chinna Bommi Nayaka was the chieftain of Vellore.

Then trouble started for this temple. Around 1650 CE the Vellore fort was taken over by Bijapur Sultanate and consequently the temple too came under Muslim occupation. 

In 1678 the Marathas seized the fort from the Bijapur sultans. In 1707, the year that Aurangazeb died, the Delhi Army under Daud Khan captured Vellore Fort after defeating the Marathas. In 1760 the British took possession of the fort after the battle of Plassey!

Since the temple was within the fort complex it changed hands from different rulers and finally came under the control of the British. This temple was very badly mutilated when it was under Muslim occupation. Worship stopped in this temple from the day Muslims took control . It was used as an arsenal for nearly 300 years! On fear of destruction, the citizens of Vellore moved away the main deity to a nearby temple in Sathuvacheri for safe keeping.  

In 1921, the Vellore Fort was handed over to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) for maintenance. Even after coming under the control of ASI, worship was not restored in this temple. This continued well after  independence of India  as ASI was keen to maintain  status quo!  ASI continuously denied permission for  reinstallation of the main Lingam in the temple and for the restarting of  worship! 

On 16th March 1981, a large group of ardent Hindu devotees brought the Lingam in a closed lorry during the early hours and re-installed it in its original shrine inside Sri Jalakandeswarar temple despite stiff opposition by ASI! Thus the worship was started once again in this historic temple after nearly 300 years.

The trouble was not fully over for this wonderful  temple! The Hindu Religious & Charitable Endowments (HR & CE) department took over the administration of the Sri Jalakandeswarar Temple on June 19th  2013 following a court order! HRCE first did what they are known for best - they sealed the temple Hundi and took control of the temple's revenues!

Since the temple is still under ASI, they have in the recent past done a great work of restoring it to its original glory. The Jalakandeswarar Temple is a fine example of Vijayanagaram Architecture. The temple has exquisite carvings on its gopuram (tower), richly carved stone pillars, large wooden gates and stunning monoliths and sculptures. The Gopuram of the tower is over 100 ft. in height. The temple also has a Mandapam, with the hall supported by carved stone pillars of dragons, horses and yalis (lion like creature) and hundreds of other sculptures.

Photography is allowed in this temple and to cover the most important place in this temple - the Kalyana Mandapam one needs to go early in the morning to get reasonably good lighting. The mandapam faces  east and it is quiet deep inside and there is no artificial lighting inside! 

Walking sticks

Salar Jung museum of Hyderabad is considered as the largest collection by a single person in the world. 

Salar Jung-III must have been an interesting man.

For, a collection as diverse and as interesting as this, requires above all else, the enormous space to stack them all. He definitely had the keen eye of the beholder to see within the object its unique soul and the stimulating amusement it holds for the viewer.

Among many collections that are seen in this museum, I was particularly attracted by a collection of walking sticks! It was amazing to see each piece had something unique!

I have taken pictures of only the handle of some of the walking sticks. In this collection, what makes each walking stick different is the handle!

Muvar Koil - Kodambalur

Kodumbalur is perhaps the oldest historically recorded site and one of the most ancient places in Pudukottai District of Tamizh Nadu. It seems the earliest Tamizh epic - Silappadikaram mentions about Kodumbalur as a town lying on the way between Uraiyur, the Chozha capital and Madurai, the Pandya capital. It is through this road did Kovalan, the hero of Silappadikaram and his wife Kannagi along with the Jaina acetic travelled from Uraiyur to Madurai. Also the Periya Puranam refers to this place as Konattu-k-kodi-nagaram! 

For a long spell between 9th and 14th centuries Kodumbalur was under the Chozhas and later under Pandyas. This place was totally destroyed during the Muslim invasions in the 14th century.

What remains today in this great place is Muvar Koil meaning temple-of-three! This temple was built by the Irukkuvel Chief Bhuthi-vikram-kesari. According to the inscriptions he built these three Shiva shrines, one on his own behalf and the other two on behalf of his two wives. 

As far as the dating of Muvar Koil there are more than one opinion. However, it can be safely said that they belong to early Chozha period i.e between 9th and 11th century AD.

The temple complex here had three main shrines (Hence the name Muvar Koil) and many sub-shrines. The three main shrines stood side by side in a row, along the north-south direction facing west. 

However of the three main shrines only two are remaining today.  In its hay days this complex was supposed to have had a manimamdabam, several sub shrines and a bali-pitam! 

Decorating the niches of the shrine's walls are some of the finest sculptures of our country. Each sculpture is done with an utmost devotion and maximum  importance is given to the minute detail even! 

On the wall of the southern temple is a play enacted the Pallava way. In the top niche is Shiva as Gangadharan in a supportive mood. His face is lighted up with a tender but mischievous smile, while Parvathi moved away in mock anger. The whole composition of the Goddess trying to edge away by squeezing herself into the narrow space of the niche shows great aesthetic sensibility. In the next niche below, in its sequel the couple is seen reconciled and Parvathi's face is lighted up with happiness as she is encircled by the arm of Shiva.

This temple complex is under the care of Archaeological Survey of India and it is a ticketed monument. Photography is allowed since it is under the care of ASI.

For Anyone interested in Indian sculptures this place has plenty to offer.

Jambukeswarar Temple Thiruvanaikaval

Jambukeswarar Temple is situated in a suburb of Trichirapalli called Thiruvanaikaval. This temple is actually in an island surrounded by the river Kaveri and Kollidam.  

Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of this temple is called Jambukeswar and the goddess is Sri Akilandeswari. Shiva is in the form of Lingam and is considered as an embodiment of the element water. There is a freshwater spring underneath the Shiv Linga. It is revered as one of the Pancha-Bhoota Stalams. 

The temple was built by Kocengannan(Kochenga Chola), one of the Early Cholas, around 1,800 years ago. For more detailed description of the temple's origin and history, one can always Google.

The gopuram or the tower at the entrance of the temple looks very simple and unassuming. But once you enter the temple you will be amazed with the grandeur of the pillars and the sculptures.  Sri Jambukeshwara Temple has five concentric walls and seven gopurams. It is believed that this temple was also built around the same time Ranganathaswamy temple was built. 

There are numerous sculptures in this temple. Each pillar is decorated elaborately with sculptures. The four pillars which are found immediately after entering the temple are most exquisitely decorated.  The figure of nomadic gypsy with her palm leaves woven basket holds the onlooker spellbound.

Photography is allowed in this temple too! They charge Rs 30 per camera. Compared to SriRanganathaswamy temple of Srirangam this temple is very poorly maintained. The temple tank was locked and another big hall with many pillars was also locked when I visited this temple. HRCE people who maintain this temple have no business to lock any part of the temple and prevent the public from seeing them!